30/08/2007, 07:56:08
well, there is one exception, the somfy ilt-drives, which can be
readily connected to a small interface box with eib input. I use
two of them myself since 4 years now and am very satisfied.
----- Original Message -----
From: "keldo" <keldermans@ibelgique.com>
To: "domotique-EIB" <domotique-EIB@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: Garage door control and monitoring
On 27 août, 18:34, Goahead <etc...@ua.pt> wrote:
> I think i got it now...
> "The actuator has two 230V outputs per channel, one to go up and the
> other one to go down, so it is easy to connect on the engine of the
> door. "
>
> Are you saying that motors have 230V input signals to make the up and
> down correct?
Well, that's the big question ...
Most of the binds/rollers motors, like tubular motors, have no
integrated electronics, they just have a wire for the neutral, a
second wire to make the motor run in one direction, a third wire to
make it run in the other direction (never power those two wires at the
same time, of course) and the two end-of-course switches.
In the case of garage door motors, it is more complex because there
any many different ways to open a door ; so it is impossible to answer
the question because it is linked to the way the motor and the
surrounding electronics have been built.
If you can buy a motor that has separate 'go up' and 'go down' inputs,
eventually completed with the traditional "one button - up/down"
remote control (or input), it is probably the easiest way to connect
everything to EIB.
If you don't find such a motor that fits your door, and you end up
buying one without the "magical 2 extra inputs", then you'll probably
need to open the top cover of the motor (and its electronic module) to
find inside how to "build" the 2 missing inputs. The hardware part
will most probably not be more complicated that adding 2 or 3 small
relays and maybe a few diodes, but even that may be far too
complicated for you if you're not experianced into such a work ... and
in any way it will definitely void the warranty on your motor.
So, except if you are a trained electrician/electronician and decide
to work with a used motor, the vendor of the new motor will be THE guy
you need to discuss with at this point, in order to get a motor with
the extra inputs.
By the way, it doesn't necessarily need to be 230V AC inputs, EIB
blind/roller modules also exist for 24V DC as far as I know, and with
a pair of relays you can make it work for any voltage and without any
modification to the motor in this case :-).
Keldo
readily connected to a small interface box with eib input. I use
two of them myself since 4 years now and am very satisfied.
----- Original Message -----
From: "keldo" <keldermans@ibelgique.com>
To: "domotique-EIB" <domotique-EIB@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: Garage door control and monitoring
On 27 août, 18:34, Goahead <etc...@ua.pt> wrote:
> I think i got it now...
> "The actuator has two 230V outputs per channel, one to go up and the
> other one to go down, so it is easy to connect on the engine of the
> door. "
>
> Are you saying that motors have 230V input signals to make the up and
> down correct?
Well, that's the big question ...
Most of the binds/rollers motors, like tubular motors, have no
integrated electronics, they just have a wire for the neutral, a
second wire to make the motor run in one direction, a third wire to
make it run in the other direction (never power those two wires at the
same time, of course) and the two end-of-course switches.
In the case of garage door motors, it is more complex because there
any many different ways to open a door ; so it is impossible to answer
the question because it is linked to the way the motor and the
surrounding electronics have been built.
If you can buy a motor that has separate 'go up' and 'go down' inputs,
eventually completed with the traditional "one button - up/down"
remote control (or input), it is probably the easiest way to connect
everything to EIB.
If you don't find such a motor that fits your door, and you end up
buying one without the "magical 2 extra inputs", then you'll probably
need to open the top cover of the motor (and its electronic module) to
find inside how to "build" the 2 missing inputs. The hardware part
will most probably not be more complicated that adding 2 or 3 small
relays and maybe a few diodes, but even that may be far too
complicated for you if you're not experianced into such a work ... and
in any way it will definitely void the warranty on your motor.
So, except if you are a trained electrician/electronician and decide
to work with a used motor, the vendor of the new motor will be THE guy
you need to discuss with at this point, in order to get a motor with
the extra inputs.
By the way, it doesn't necessarily need to be 230V AC inputs, EIB
blind/roller modules also exist for 24V DC as far as I know, and with
a pair of relays you can make it work for any voltage and without any
modification to the motor in this case :-).
Keldo